Photo by evaporar

Rio de Janeiro Guide Sections:

• Visa & Immigration
• Survival Basics
• Cost of Living
• Accommodation
• Communications
• Money
• What To Take
• Health
• Local Transport
• Shopping
• Sightseeing

Visa & Immigration

Tourist Visa Required?
For US citizen: Yes
For UK citizen: No

Length of stay allowed as a tourist? 3 months

How to get from the airport?

Taxis: The taxis in Rio are yellow and there are plenty of them outside the terminal. The radio taxis charge a flat fee of around US$30/£15 one way to Copacabana and Ipanema. They are easily identified by the “radio” slogan on the car side and they are comfortable and air-conditioned. But there are plenty of cheaper yellow taxis which run by the meter. Most taxi drivers are reliable but a few might try to drive round in circles to keep the meter ticking. Keep an eye for sign posts to your destination.

Transfers: These are not necessary but most travel agents and/or hotels will arrange transfers from the airport directly to the hotel. The main hotels in Rio have their own mini buses.

Air conditioned bus: There is also an air-conditioned bus that leaves from outside the terminal and goes to all the hotels in Copacabana and Ipanema. This differs from the public buses. The public buses are by far the cheapest way the travel around Rio but are also considered the least safe for foreigners. If you’re not travelling with a local and it’s your first time in Rio it’s best to avoid the public buses.

What would you recommend as a ‘local’?

Take a normal yellow meter taxi. This should cost you around R$25 (£7/$14).

Basics of Survival

Primary language spoken?

Portuguese. Learning a few of the basic phrases will help you as will Spanish.

Other languages spoken:

Spanish is understood but you probably won’t get a response in Spanish. The staff at the receptions of the major hotels in Ipanema and Copacabana usually speak good English. People working for multinational companies will usually be able to speak a bit of English.

What’s the weather like at different times of the year?

The weather will turn hotter from mid October onwards. Between October and December you can expect temperatures to rise to +30º C. From December onwards, which is when most people take their summer holidays, the temperatures will rise to 40º C.

The weather is pretty stable during the summer months with the sunny days far outnumbering the rainy ones. From around 10am onwards the heat is usually humid and intense.

Spring and autumn are by far the most pleasant and prettiest times in Rio. The air is clear and sun shines brightly. Although the temperatures can be hot (somewhere between 20-30º C) there is a freshness in the air that is absent in the summer months.

What type of plugs do I need?

Two pronged plugs - 110 watts

If I run out of, lose or break any business equipment (laptop, phone, cables etc.), can I buy them easily here?

Electronic goods are easily available to buy although any imported brands are expensive due to the heavy tax. You won’t find any bargains. Casa & Video is the major outlet which will cover most of your electronic needs.

What is the crime situation really like?

Rio de Janeiro has a bad reputation for crime but it is not the Wild Wild West! Whilst your safety cannot be guaranteed, just as anywhere in the world, you should be fine if you take the following precautions:

• Split your money into different pockets so that you can access small denomination notes and coins for taxis and coffees and keep your large denomination notes out of sight.
• Most pickpocketing or mugging attempts are successful when the victim is distracted or surprised. With this in mind be aware of friendly locals coming up to you to ask you for directions or offering you drinks. One will keep your attention whilst the other grabs want they want. This scam happens on the beach as well, especially if you are using the “You go swim and I’ll watch our stuff” policy. Don’t fall asleep on the beach!
• Don’t ever lose sight of your credit card, especially in gas stations and restaurants. Credit card cloning is serious here.
• Don’t accept drinks or cigarettes from strangers in bars or clubs. The drugging of those new in town has been on the increase.

Where should I avoid?

• The slums, known as Favelas. These are hard to get into anyway
• The centre of town, known as Centro, at the weekends and at night. It’s absolutely deserted at these times.
• The areas near the aiports. These are generally very poor areas.

Cost of Living

How much does a basket of groceries cost for 2 people for 2 days?
- assume this would include 2 packets of meat, some vegetables, a bottle of water or other soft drink, some eggs, some cheese, some fruit, pasta/rice/potatoes.

If you shop at a place like Sendas, which equates to a supermarket like Tesco, then as basket of groceries for 2 people over a week would cost approximately R$60 (£17/$34).

What’s considered expensive for a meal out?

Spending R$60 (£17/$34) plus per person is considered very expensive. For this amount you would expect only the best quality food and service.

What’s considered cheap for a meal out?

R$40 is a cheap meal and not necessarily eaten in a poor restaurant.

What’s a fair taxi ride price?

Fair price for a ride from somwhere like Ipanema to a big shopping mall like Rio Sul in Botofogo would cost around R$15-16 (£4/$8).

What bargains should I look out for here?

You get a good deal on brazilian clothes: well cut jeans and very good quality shoes. Havaianas (flip flops) cost R$9-10 (£3/$6) in the supermarkets compared to £21 ($40) in London shops. Brazilian music and locally made jewelry are very good and you normally get a good deal. If you choose to go up to Teresopolis or Petropolis you will get a good deal on leather jackets.

What rip-offs should I avoid buying here?

Any goods that are imported due to the heavy tax.

Photo by Ben Tubby

Where to Find Furnished Accommodation

Where To Stay

The best neighbourhoods to live in Rio are the ones closer to the coast. Botafogo and Flamengo are the cheapest options and very family-friendly, and also popular with students and young couples.

From there, you are a short bus or cab drive away from the beaches of Leme, Copacabana and Ipanema; you can also cycle there through the area of Aterro do Flamengo, a park by Guanabara Bay with amazing views to the Sugar Loaf.

Other reasonable options are Laranjeiras, Cosme Velho and Humaitá. The two first ones are quiet and leafy areas with good access to the coast, and Humaitá is a stone’s throw from the Lagoon (Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas). Lagoa, the area around the Lagoon, is also very nice but very expensive. Jardim Botanico, close by, is a bit more accessible and offers views to the Lagoon and easy access to the beautiful Botanic Gardens and waterfalls.

If you want to be right by the beach, you have to go to Leme, Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon. The two latter areas are the most fashionable in Rio, so expect to pay for the priviledge. Leme and Copa have seen better days and now are decadent reminders of the golden 50s, but are affordable, by the beach and from there you can also easily cycle to trendier Ipanema.

There are a few suburbs further out such as Barra, Jacarepagua and Recreio but you would need to hire a car in order to get around. Unfortunately, the subway system (a safer option than the bus for tourists) doesn’t reach out to these areas yet. Barra and Recreio are not as developed as Ipanema or Copacabana but hi speed internet and other facilities are still widely available. Jacarepagua is one area where you can rent a house at quite reasonable prices within gated communities. However, it’s not on the coast and, again, you would need a car.

Ranking of Top LIP suburbs based on affordability:

1. Flamengo
2. Botafogo
3. Jacarepagua
4. Recreio
5. Laranjeiras
6. Barra
7. Copacabana
8. Humaita
9. Leme
10. Cosme Velho
11. Jardim Botanico
12. Ipanema
13. Lagoa
14. Leblon

Ranking of Top LIP suburbs based on proximity to beaches:

1. Copacabana
2. Ipanema
3. Leblon
4. Barra
5. Recreio
6. Leme
7. Lagoa

Things to watch out for when renting an apartment:

• Avoid any apartment with close views of a favela.
• Avoid any apartment, which is situated in close proximity of a favela.
• See the area in which you want to live at night. If it’s too deserted then avoid it.
• Check expat forums and see, if possible, if you can hook up with an expat who’s been there for a while. He or she should be able to give you the low-down.
• Flats come unfurnished unless they are “vacation rentals”. These are called Apartomentos para temporada, which are mostly found in Copacabana and Barra. These are more expensive than unfurnished flats.

Where to find furnished apartments:

Suggestion 1: OGLOBO newspaper and/or website

Comment: This is the major newspaper in Rio and has all the apartment listings. This is the best option for finding a good deal. Look for Temporada or Apartamentos para aluguel. You will need to know a little portuguese to understand the abbreviations in the ads and to speak to the owner. Estate Agents are not that commonly used in Rio and so any negotiations would usually with the owner.

Suggestion 2: www.rioapartments.se

Comment: This company has a number of apartments available catering for all budgets. Most of the apartments are in the Copacabana and Ipanema area. You will need to contact them in order to strike a deal for a long term stay. Prices range from US$40 per night to US$180 per night.

In general, any apartment rental company that has been set up to cater for foreigners will be more expensive than finding an apartment in the local newspaper. Most of these rental companies have apartments in the smartest parts of town and not many elsewhere. It will come down to your confidence in speaking the language as to whether you want to try finding something on your own. If you have a portuguese speaking friend in town who can help you all the better!

Communications

What’s the availability of high speed internet really like?

This is available throughout Rio although if you”e staying in an apartment which doesn’t already have it, installation does take quite a bit of time.

Where’s the best place to get pre-paid SIM card?

There are various shops you can get a pre-paid SIM cards from. The best are TIM, Oi, Claro and Vivo.

Is free wireless available?

Wireless access is available via the Boingo service at the following locations >>>

Click here to get your unique SkypeIn number

Photo by Flavia Man

Finances & Money

Main currency accepted?

The Brazilian Real.

Any other currencies accepted?

US Dollars in the major hotels on Ipanema and Copacobana beach.

Type of Credit Cards accepted?

Mastercard, Visa and American Express

What’s the preferred method of payment in local shops? Cash (local)

Cash, credit or debit card (Maestro and Cirrus). Many products can be paid for in installments once personal details are handed over.

Do shops accept larger bills (.e.g. R$20)

These are accepted in the large shopping malls such as Rio do Sul. Smaller newsagent type shops may struggle to give you the change for the largest denomination notes.

Where’s the best place to get cash from? (e.g. a bank, an ATM, exchange booth)

ATMs inside banks are the best and safest place to extract cash. Shopping malls will also have cash machines inside them and there are plenty of security guards in the building.

Are Traveller’s Cheques accepted & easy to change?

These are a safe alternative but not necessarily the best deal. If you need them then exchange them at an American Express or Citibank branch for the best rates.

What To Take

What kind of clothes will I need?

The weather is generally very good during spring and summer and the temperatures are hot. Which means that shorts, dresses, t-shirts and swimwear are most commonly worn if you’re not working. The office dress code is fairly strict and it’s usual for suits to be worn. If you have corporate meetings to go to then it’s best to play safe and wear smart clothes.

Beach wear typically consists of speedos (like those worn by James Bond) and boardies for men, bikinis (no thongs) for women, t-shirts and a pair of flipflops.

For the winter months you will need warm clothes and heavier shoes. The temperatures can drop to 10º C.

What one typically might wear for a meal out:

For a meal out in an expensive restaurant men should go for a smart shirt and trousers. Women will typically wear a summer dress and some smart shoes. You would get away with wearing a pair of jeans but they should be smart.

For other cheaper restaurants jeans and a t-shirt are perfectly acceptable. If you are coming straight off the beach then put a top on.

Health

What’s the emergency services number to call?

Police = 190
Ambulance = 192
Fire = 193

Can I drink tap water?

No - drink bottled water. Minerlba is the best brand and it is cheap.

What foods/food vendors should I avoid?

The king prawns and sandwiches sold on the beach should be avoided. Any street vendors selling BBQd meat should also be avoided.

Are there any specific health risks (diseases etc.) I need to know about?

Dengue Fever is a real risk in Rio so you should be aware of the mosquitos.

How strong is the sun really?

The sun is very strong from around 10am onwards. Even those who tan easily need to take proper precautions not to burn. The best policy is to build up your exposure gradually. Don’t forget that the sand reflects the sun too.

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Getting Around

What transport options are there?

Rio is like any big city in that you can get by on public transport and taxis are cheap. The subway system is good, clean and air-conditioned but not that extensive. If you live in the South Zone of Rio then you don’t need a car to get to Ipanema or Copacabana beach.

It is recommended that you hire a car if you want to explore further afield.

What’s the driving like?

Driving is stressful as there is a lot of traffic. Drivers can be aggressive and they drive fast. However, it is no more difficult to drive in Rio than somewhere like London or New York.

Any driving tips?

Be assertive and work out where you are going first. If you want to go to Ipanema or Copacobana beach at the weekends then head out at around 10am because parking is difficult. There are public parking assistants who want find you a parking space and take of your car whilst you are away. If there are plenty of spaces you won’t need their help to find a space but there is usually a small fee to look after your car. This is a maximum of R$2 and you pay this as you leave. As parking space is a premium they may ask you to leave your handbrake off so that they can move cars around to create more space.

There is a general rule of thumb that when driving past 9:30pm at night you don’t stop at red lights. Obviously you need to use your common sense and check for oncoming traffic. This is to avoid being targeted by robbers. Most cars are sold with blacked out windows and come with air conditioning. The idea is to keep your windows shut, particularly at night. This is as much for your safety as it is for the cool factor!

What’s the public transport like?

Generally the public transport in Rio is very good. The subway would be the cheapest and safest way to travel if using public transport. It’s air conditioned, fast and generally quite efficient. Orange seats on the subway are reserved for the elderly and pregnant women. The subway is closed on Sundays.

There are plenty of buses and it’s easy to hop on ask the ticket collector if you’re on the right one or not. If not they don’t mind you hopping off again without paying. However, the buses are not that safe for foreigners, unless you’re with some locals, and are often very crowded.

For peace of mind and convenience the yellow taxi is the best bet. These are not that expensive

Cost of public transport?

Public Transport is cheap. A single on the bus or the subway won’t cost more than a couple of R$’s if that.

Where do I buy tickets from?

You can buy the tickets as you board the bus. There are metal turnstiles on the public buses that won’t allow you through to the seats unless you’ve bought a ticket.
The subway stations is the best place to buy tickets for the subway. You can also buy multiple journey tickets at these stations.

What should I know about using public transport?

Find out what the routes are first. Use public buses as the last option and never get on to any empty ones. For buses from the Novo Rio bus station to Copacabana take bus number 127, 128 and 136. For buses to Ipanema and Leblon take buses numbers 128, 172 and 173

The subway opens at 6am and closes at 11pm daily, except sundays.

Photo by laszlo-photo

Shopping

Do you have to hand in your other bags (handbags, rucksack, shopping bags) at the entrance to the shop?

No.

Do you have to weigh & price fruit & vegetables yourself prior to check out?

No

Do you pack your own bags?

Yes, most of the time. Although they may offer you help to pack.

What else do I need to know when out shopping?

The shopping malls stay open until 10pm at night during weekdays and until 8pm at the weekends. Most shops do accept maestro/cirrus debit cards.

If you have a credit card you can register with the shop and you can pay for goods in installments. This only applies to those goods that are advertised as such.

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Things To See & Do

Over-rated / Rip-off ‘Experiences’

#1: Radio Taxis
Comments: The normal ones are perfectly ok and charge less.

# 2: Any goods offered to you on Copacabana beach
Comments: These are very likely to be low quality and highly priced for what they are.

# 3: Large groups in restaurants
Comments: Check the bill carefully when it arrives. If there are a lot of you in the party keep an eye out on what you’ve ordered. It has been known for extra items to find their way onto the bill.

# 4: Nightclubs in Copacabana
Comments: These are tourist traps. Very expensive and exceptionally cheesy.

# 5: Helicopter city tour
Comments: It’s really expensive and the views can be seen from the Sugar Loaf and Christ the Redeemer.

Best ‘Hidden Gems’ & Must Do’s

These are not hidden gems but they are must do’s.

# 1: Sugar Loaf Mountain
Comments: The cable car ride up may be a little shaky but the views of the city are well worth it. Best to go late afternoons to enjoy the sunset.

# 2: Christ the Redeemer Statue
Comments: This is the famous statue of Jesus Christ that can be seen from anywhere in Rio. You can take the cog train, which is an enjoyable if a very slow ride. You can also take a car and a taxi up. Taxi drivers will offer quite a good deal which includes waiting at the top and the return trip. If there are a few of you then the taxi ride is the better option. The views of the city and the surrounding mountains are spectacular.

# 3: The Botanical Gardens
Comments: This is a peaceful and relaxing place to go to during the week. Avoid it at the weekends as it gets quite busy. There are plenty of park benches to sit and read and enjoy a quiet moment. It’s open from 8am to 5pm everyday.

# 4: The Lagoon
Comments: This is a great place to head out to for a walk on Saturday and Sunday mornings. There are plenty of spots to stop for a fresh coconut water. It’s relaxing in the mornings and a great place for some drinks and a bite to eat in the evening.

# 5: Sunset at Arpoador
Comments: Arpoador is the big landmark between the Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. Basically it’s a huge rock but it’s a great place to enjoy the sun setting at the end of the day. It really is a stunning sight and it’s usual for the locals to applaud the sun as it goes down.

# 6: Bibi Juice Bar
Comments: Best juice bar in town with the freshest locally grown fruit available. If you live nearby then make it a part of your morning routine!

Where To Go:

…for a culture fix:
For your culture fix of the day the best places to visit are CCBB (Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil), Casa Franca-Brasil (House France-Brazil) and the two museums MNBA and MAM. These can all be found in the centre of town. All are well worth a visit.

…for good food:
For a great meal out the following restaurants are fantastic: Marius, Porcao and Barra Brassa. These restaurants have great variety and the service is very good. A cheaper option is the Chaika salad bar which offers more than just salads. This is a popular place for lunch. Beware as the air-conditioning is very cold!

…to chill:
The Lagoon is a lovely place to be to relax. It’s situated a few blocks behind Ipanema beach. There are plenty of bars and restaurants with a relaxing atmosphere.

…to see wildlife:
There is plenty of wildlife to see on the way up to the Sugar Loaf mountain and the Christ the Redeemer statue. Beware of the monkeys! Alternatively, you can take a boat trip out to the Cagamas Islands, which you can see from Ipanema beach. There you’ll be able to see dolphins swim and do plenty of snorkeling.

…to be refreshed & invigorated:
There is a little waterfall by the roadside on the way up to the Christ the Redeemer statue. The weather can be very hot and humid so standing underneath this for a minute or two will revive your senses. It can actually become quite addictive!

Any other secrets of a local?

Bureaucracy is a real problem in Rio and in Brazil as a whole. The quickest way to get things done is by knowing someone in the organisation or practice e.g. a friend of a friend. This will speed the process up.

Guide Credits:

This guide was written by Greg Hollings.

With contributions from:

Claudia Vasconcellos-Hollings